Paddling Through the River: My Journey on the Yadkin River State Trail

-Clayton Rhoads, YRK Intern

The Yadkin River is more than just a body of water; it’s a vital artery that pulses with North Carolina's rich history, culture, and natural beauty. As a recent adventurer who kayaked the Yadkin River State Trail, I’ve experienced firsthand the profound connection between the river and the communities, landscapes, and ecosystems it nourishes. This journey, which spanned from the Kerr Scott Reservoir in Wilkesboro to York Hill, just before High Rock Lake, was both a physical challenge and a deeply enriching experience that brought me closer to the heart of the Yadkin River Valley.

Yadkin River below Kerr Scott Reservoir

The Beginning: Navigating the Upper Yadkin

My adventure began at 7:30 in the morning at the Kerr Scott Reservoir in Wilkesboro, where the Yadkin River State Trail starts. The excitement of launching my kayak into the clear water just leaving the reservoir holding was amazing. I had spent weeks planning and preparing for this journey, but nothing could fully capture the thrill of that first moment on the water. The reservoir itself is a view, surrounded by the rolling foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, providing a picturesque backdrop that set the tone for the adventure ahead. The river here is serene and inviting, surrounded by lush greenery and the promise of adventure downstream.

Though quick, the initial stretch of the river was calm and gentle, giving me a chance to get accustomed to the rhythm of paddling. The early morning mist hung low over the water, and the calls of birds echoed through the still air. As I paddled away from the reservoir and into the more narrow and winding sections of the river, I felt a sense of anticipation and excitement. The river seemed to beckon me forward, promising new sights and experiences around every bend.

Yadkin River near Roaring River

The upper reaches of the Yadkin are characterized by their clear, swift waters and rocky outcrops. This section required a keen eye and steady hand, as I navigated through a series of small rapids and rocky shoals. The sound of rushing water and the sight of waves breaking over rocks were both exhilarating and calming. It was here that I first encountered the abundant wildlife that calls the Yadkin Valley home. Wood ducks and their ducklings glided gracefully across the water, beavers swam by, and herons stood watch along the banks. I had picked the best time of year to start this journey. The summer heat still had not come and the cold had already left.

The river in this region flows through dense forests, where the canopy overhead provided a cool respite from the sun. Each paddle stroke seemed to carry me deeper into a world untouched by time, where the only sounds were the gentle splash of my paddle and the occasional rustle of leaves as wildlife moved through the underbrush. I did not see a single person during this stretch. It was just myself and the fauna I was with.

Railroad bridge over the Mitchell River at its confluence with the Yadkin.

As I progressed, the river began to reveal its dynamic character. The transition from the reservoir's calm waters to the more challenging currents of the upper Yadkin was a reminder of the river's ever-changing nature. Every bend in the river brought a new challenge and a new view, each more stunning than the last. The combination of physical exertion and the breathtaking scenery created a sense of being fully alive and present in the moment.

The journey through this section of the river also provided a deep sense of solitude and reflection. Being alone on the water, surrounded by the beauty and power of nature, allowed me to connect with the river in a deeply personal way. The experience was both humbling and empowering, reminding me of the importance of preserving such pristine environments for future generations to enjoy. This was my first time paddling alone, and it definitely won’t be my last.

Starting my journey at Kerr Scott Reservoir and navigating through the upper Yadkin was a perfect introduction to the adventures that lay ahead. This initial leg of the journey set the stage for a deeper exploration of the Yadkin River, its diverse landscapes, and the rich history that it carries through the heart of North Carolina.

A Tapestry of Landscapes

Yadkin River near Rockford in Surry County

One of the most captivating aspects of the Yadkin River is its constantly evolving landscape. From the rocky cliffs that rise majestically along the riverbanks to the fertile farmlands and expansive pastures, the scenery is a study in contrasts. Each bend in the river brought a new view, a different feel, and a fresh appreciation for the natural beauty of North Carolina. The river’s ability to transition seamlessly from one landscape to another made it feel like I was paddling through a web of interconnected worlds, each with its own story and charm. Each section of the river presented a different chapter in the story of the Yadkin.

The river began in the embrace of rugged, forested hills. Here, the landscape was dominated by rocky cliffs and densely packed trees, their branches forming a verdant canopy overhead. The cliffs along the riverbank added a dramatic flair to the scenery, their surfaces worn smooth by centuries of water flow.

Rock outcroppings near Elkin on the Yadkin County side of the River

As I moved downstream, the landscape gradually softened. The rocky cliffs gave way to rolling hills and fertile farmlands. Fields of corn and soybeans stretched out to the horizon, their hues a stark contrast to the deep greens of the forest. Farmhouses dotted the landscape, their presence a reminder of the region’s agricultural heritage. This section of the river was particularly beautiful in the early morning and late afternoon when the sunlight cast long shadows and bathed the fields in a warm tint.

Further along, the river meandered through wide, open pastures. Here, cattle grazed lazily by the water's edge (and sometimes in the River), and the landscape took on a pastoral charm. The riverbanks were lined with wildflowers, adding splashes of color to the greens and browns of the pastures. It was a peaceful scene that seemed to belong to a simpler, slower time. A time that not enough people appreciate nowadays.

The river’s constant evolution was one of its most intriguing features. Although the Yadkin River State Trail is a singular path, the variety of landscapes made it feel like a web of interconnected worlds. Each new section brought with it a different atmosphere and a new set of experiences. The sense of discovery was ever-present, as I never knew what lay around the next bend.

Clayton Day 3 on the Yadkin

This ever-changing landscape was home to an incredible array of wildlife. In addition to the ducks and beavers I had seen earlier, I encountered a rich variety of birdlife. Herons stood like statues in the shallows, while ospreys and bald eagles soared overhead. One of the most remarkable sights was a rookery of tri-colored herons, their nests precariously perched in the trees along the riverbank. The sight of these elegant birds was a testament to the river’s role as a vital habitat.

The river itself mirrored the diversity of the landscape. There were sections where the water flowed swiftly, creating small rapids that added a sense of adventure and excitement to the journey. These rapids, with their bubbling, frothy waters, were both challenging and exhilarating to navigate. Conversely, there were stretches where the river widened and slowed, becoming a broad, calm expanse of water that reflected the sky and surrounding landscape like a mirror. These tranquil sections offered a chance to relax and absorb the beauty of the surroundings. It was in these sections that I would lay back, not paddle, and just take the journey in.

The ever-changing landscapes of the Yadkin River not only provided visual and sensory delight but also a deeper appreciation for the natural and cultural richness of the region. Each landscape told a story of the land’s history and its people, from the rugged cliffs that spoke of ancient geological processes to the farmlands that testified to generations of agricultural tradition. This tapestry of landscapes, woven together by the flowing river, made my journey on the Yadkin River State Trail an unforgettable experience.

Connecting with Communities

Each town and village I encountered had its own unique charm and story, all intertwined with the river that flows through them. These communities, from bustling small towns to serene rural hamlets, provided a deeper understanding of the region's cultural and historical significance. Getting to explore places like Elkin, Ronda, and Salisbury was so neat. These towns have a deep connection to the river. Conversations with local residents revealed a strong sense of stewardship for the river, as they shared memories of fishing, boating, and family picnics along its banks. These stories highlighted the river's role in their lives, not just as a natural resource but as a source of recreation and community bonding. In these areas, the river is both a lifeline and a gathering place. Local farmers rely on the river's waters to irrigate their crops, and it was common to see children playing along the banks or families enjoying a day of fishing.

Pilot Mountain in the distance

During my four years at Wake Forest, I never truly got to know the Yadkin River until my last semester. This realization struck me repeatedly as I paddled downstream. Despite its proximity, the river remained an undiscovered gem for so many of my fellow students. It was during this time that I embarked on my internship with the Yadkin Riverkeeper and discovered the river’s significance. My conversations with friends and fellow students often revealed a surprising lack of awareness about the Yadkin River, which only reinforced my commitment to sharing its beauty and importance.

Engaging with these communities provided a richer, more nuanced understanding of the Yadkin River. It highlighted the importance of local stewardship and the collective efforts to protect and enhance the river for future generations. The river’s health is intrinsically linked to the health of the communities it flows through, and the passionate advocacy of local residents and organizations is a testament to this bond.

The Splendor of the Lower Yadkin

As I continued my journey towards the lower sections of the Yadkin River, the landscape and the river itself began to transform, revealing a different kind of beauty. This stretch of the river, from where the currents began to ease until the York Hill stop, just before High Rock Lake, offered a more leisurely pace and an opportunity to fully immerse myself in the natural splendor of the Yadkin.

Blue Heron Rookery

In the lower sections, the Yadkin River broadened significantly. The water here flowed more slowly and smoothly, creating a calm, reflective surface that mirrored the sky and surrounding landscape. This change in pace allowed for a different kind of paddling experience. Instead of focusing on navigating rapids or avoiding rocks, I could relax and enjoy the gentle rhythm of the river. This part of the journey was like a meditative retreat, where the soothing sounds of the water and the gentle breeze created a serene environment.

The riverbanks in this section were lush and verdant, teeming with a diverse array of plant life. Tall trees with overhanging branches provided shade while the underbrush was thick with ferns, wildflowers, and other native vegetation. The greenery was almost overwhelming in its abundance and vibrancy, creating a feeling of paddling through a living, breathing ecosystem. This stretch of the river felt like a sanctuary, a place where nature was allowed to thrive undisturbed.

The lower Yadkin River is a haven for wildlife, and I was fortunate to witness many remarkable sights. I saw a bald eagle soaring overhead near Tanglewood Park. Ospreys and other birds of prey were also common sights, their keen eyes scanning the water for their next meal. The banks were alive with the activity of smaller birds, insects, and amphibians, creating a vibrant and dynamic environment.

The lower Yadkin River is not just a peaceful retreat; it is a critical habitat for many species. The wetlands and floodplains along this section are particularly important for birds, fish, and other wildlife. The rich, nutrient-laden waters support a thriving ecosystem, from microscopic organisms to large mammals. The biodiversity of the lower Yadkin is a testament to the river’s health and the importance of conservation efforts to protect these natural habitats.

Near Tanglewood Park

Challenges and Triumphs

Kayaking the entirety of the Yadkin River State Trail was not without its challenges. Long days of paddling left my muscles sore, and unpredictable weather added an element of uncertainty to the journey. There were moments of doubt, particularly during stretches where the river seemed to stretch endlessly with no end in sight. But each challenge was met with determination and a growing sense of accomplishment.

One of the most exhilarating yet challenging parts of the journey was navigating the various rapids scattered along the river. While much of the Yadkin River is calm and slow-moving, certain sections, especially near the rocky outcrops and narrow bends, featured fast-moving rapids that required careful navigation. These rapids, ranging from gentle riffles to more intense whitewater, demanded quick thinking and precise maneuvering.

I vividly remember the rapids near the Yadkin Shore Access. The water here was particularly turbulent, and despite my best efforts to stay upright (and maybe an intrusive thought to jump in), my kayak capsized. The shock of the cold water and the rush of adrenaline were intense, but the experience taught me a valuable lesson in humility and preparedness. After righting my kayak and getting back on course, I felt a renewed sense of confidence and respect for the River.

Mentally, the journey required focus and determination. Long hours alone on the river provided plenty of time for introspection. Keeping my spirits high and maintaining motivation was essential. I found strength in the beauty of my surroundings and in the small victories along the way, such as spotting a rare bird or successfully navigating a tricky section of the river.

Hanging Gardens on the Davie County side

Each challenge overcome, from navigating rapids to weathering storms, contributed to a growing sense of resilience and self-reliance. The triumphs, both big and small, instilled a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. The journey reinforced the value of perseverance and the rewards of stepping outside one’s comfort zone by kayaking an entire river.

The End of the Journey: Reflecting on the Experience

My journey concluded at the York Hill access point, just before the expanse of High Rock Lake. As I paddled the final miles, I felt a deep sense of fulfillment and gratitude. The river carried me through diverse landscapes, historical epochs, and vibrant communities, each contributing to a tapestry of experiences that I will cherish forever.

The final stretch of the river was marked by a profound sense of farewell. The landscapes that had become familiar over the course of the journey now felt like old friends. Each bend in the river, each ripple in the water, held memories of the experiences and encounters along the way. Saying goodbye to these scenes was bittersweet. The river had become a constant companion, offering both challenges and solace, and it was hard to part with the daily rhythm of paddling and discovery.

Kayaking the Yadkin River State Trail was more than an adventure; it was a journey of discovery and connection. It reinforced the importance of preserving our natural waterways and the rich heritage they support. The Yadkin River is not just a path of water but a living entity that sustains and enriches the land and people around it. As I reflect on my journey, I am reminded of the words of environmentalist John Muir: “In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.” My time on the Yadkin River was a testament to this truth, offering lessons, beauty, and connections that will stay with me for a lifetime.

For those seeking adventure, solace, or a deeper connection to North Carolina’s natural and cultural heritage, I wholeheartedly recommend embarking on your own journey along the Yadkin River State Trail. It is an experience that will leave you with a profound appreciation for this remarkable river and the life it supports.

Looking Up River from Baptism Rock at Boone's Cave Park in Davidson County

Sharing the Story

As mentioned above, throughout my time kayaking the Yadkin River, I often thought about how many of my friends and fellow students had never heard of this incredible waterway. It’s surprising that such a significant river remains unknown to so many. Sharing my experiences with others has been a way to spread awareness and appreciation for the Yadkin River.

The Yadkin River is a treasure that deserves to be celebrated and safeguarded. Through storytelling, community engagement, and advocacy, the Yadkin Riverkeeper aims to ensure that its story continues to be told and its future remains bright. As more people discover and connect with the Yadkin River, the collective effort to preserve its pristine beauty and ecological health will only grow stronger.

In the end, my journey on the Yadkin River State Trail was not just about paddling from point A to point B. It was about discovering the hidden gems of North Carolina, connecting with its communities, and gaining a deeper understanding of the river that plays such a crucial role in their lives. Whether it was the entertainment of paddling through the Shoals, performing a sketchy portage at Idol’s Dam, or getting that “million dollar view” of Pilot Mountain on the water, I am incredibly thankful for the opportunity to undertake this adventure and for the memories and lessons it has given me. I would like to thank everybody who helped me on this journey, whether it was shuttling me to access points, giving me navigation advice, or even paddling sections with me, it means the world. I could not have done it without y’all. The Yadkin River, with all its beauty and complexity, will always hold a special place in my heart.

Landing at York Hill access area in Yadkin River Park in Davidson County